The biggest reason to drag over half or full crimping is because if you don't have to grip harder, you shouldn't. Do I just have short pinkies? Is there some trick that I've failed to learn over all these years that can get a short pinky up onto a crimp without actually crimping up the index finger?. The biggest reason for this is that it is the hand position that many climbers believe to be the safest for training. Aug 26, 2024 · The strict half crimp position, giving the best gains, may vary based on individual finger lengths. So then I just started with switching to strict half-crimp position. May 1, 2024 · Crimp Climbing 101 covers the essential techniques and training tips for using crimps. The logic behind this thought came from his history with hangboarding. You will perform one (entry-level) to three (advanced) sets of repeaters with each grip position. Crimp encompasses three different grip types– open hand or half crimp, closed crimp, and full crimp. Will this lead to injury, should i not be half-crimping then? This only happens on edges that are 10mm or less.

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